Inside the Scene: Johannesburg

Johannesburg. Joburg. Jozi. Whatever moniker people choose to refer to this buzzing, bustling African metropolis, and whichever point of departure anyone views it from, the takeaway is always uniform: experiencing Johannesburg can be life-changing – literally.

For musicians who are based in the city, or who regularly come here for gigs, it is paradise. The people come out in numbers, and the love they show for the music is genuine. Siya Makuzeni, who has been based here for close to two decades, says: “There’s really some beauty to it, because I’ve managed to almost go through the births and deaths of the different cultural movements that have been happening in Johannesburg. But I think one thing that’s always stayed constant [...] is its sheer authenticity.”

Sibusile Xaba, who is based some 60 kilometres away in the city of Tshwane, echoes her sentiments: “In terms of performance, mainstream, Joburg is our playground, it’s our New York, straight. This is where we come, and all the opportunities [are here].”

Johannesburg is a feeling and an experience, something hard to put into words. It is also a city struggling with the same set of realities as other cities elsewhere: gentrification is driving out the lifeblood of the city – the artists and makers – and pushing them to the edges, while widespread corruption is making it hard for local government to maintain basic services. The roads leave a lot to be desired, and water and other basic human needs are a secondary consideration. There is also the reality of the COVID-19 pandemic, which has made it near-impossible for some to survive, and in the process led to key music venues having to shut their doors. Still, the city breathes and the city lives. And music is always available to fill in the gaps when words fail.

What started out as an attempt to have a conversation between two highly regarded musicians about indigenous knowledge systems, turned into a joyful exchange of ideas and lessons across generations. Moderated by the healer and creative powerhouse Makhosi Khanyisa, and featuring the doyenne of bow music, Madosini, alongside visionary composer Nduduzo Makhathini, this sit-down explores the storied tradition of the instrument, and links this to its functions within the greater society.

Madosini delves deep into her journey as a young woman, while Nduduzo offers his views regarding how stories like hers make the learning process bearable, even fun, because the students have a sense of history to attach to it – in contrast to Western instruments and modes of teaching which have no real, consequential value to most Africans beyond getting a good grade and passing the course. Makhathini’s experience in the academy – he heads the Music programme at the University of Fort Hare – along with Madosini’s passion for education are evident throughout. A thoroughly satisfying exchange, full of warmth and mutual respect between all those involved.